Stability and Sensory Evaluation of an Innovative Antiaging Formulation Based on Marine Ingredients

Abstract The high consumption of antiaging cosmetics represents an outstanding opportunity for the development of new processes and attractive products in the cosmetic industry. Stability studies and sensory analyses are critical steps in the development process and production chain. Here we present a potential antiaging cosmetic product with innovative sensory characteristics. Caviar extract antioxidant properties were firstly evaluated by the DPPH method since it is an important mechanism against skin aging. Ca-alginate beads containing 2% of caviar extract and 0.2% of black pigment were prepared to obtain spheres similar to caviar. The beads were incorporated in a gel phase (hydroxyethylcellulose 2.5%) containing 3% of dimethylaminoethanol. Stability was evaluated in different storage conditions (sunlight exposure, 5 ± 2 °C, 37 ± 2 °C and r.t.) through the parameters: appearance, color and odor, pH (6-7), density (0.98-1.14 g.mL-1), centrifugation and average size. After approval by the Committee for Ethics in Research (n° 3.503.061), 30 volunteers tested the new formulation and answered a questionnaire. At 2%, caviar extract was able to scavenge 10.9% ± 0.58 of DPPH radical. Formulations showed good stability after 90 days, even considering the average size (7.47 ± 0.41 - 8.4 ± 0.65 mm2). 90% of the sensory test participants reported that they would buy the new product. Therefore, the new product developed demonstrates a promising potential as an attractive cosmetic product.

Maquiagem - cuidados no uso

É preciso tomar muito cuidado com o uso de produtos de maquiagem, pois usados de maneira incorreta pode causar algumas complicações para a sua saúde. Entrevistamos a Dra. Farize Murad, dermatologista da Secretaria Municipal da Saúde de São Paulo que explica os cuidados no uso e no armazenamento dos produtos de maquiagem. Reportagem de Roberta Rossi.

Diseño de una crema regeneradora con quitina para después del bronceado / Design of a regenerative chitin cream for use after sun tanning

Introducción: después de tomar el sol resulta indispensable reparar la piel agredida por los rayos nocivos. Los cosmecéuticos para después del sol contienen elementos antinflamatorios, calmantes, hidratantes, suavizantes y regeneradores del epitelio, los cuales evitan o mitigan la sensación de dolor, tirantez, ardor y prurito.Objetivo: desarrollar una crema regeneradora con quitina para después del bronceado con la calidad requerida para reparar e hidratar la piel. Métodos: se realizaron dos diseños experimentales 22 (F1 y F2), en los que se utilizaron humectantes diferentes, glicerina y propilenglicol respectivamente. Se midieron como variables respuestas: el pH y la extensibilidad; además se analizaron las propiedades psicofisiológicas, la tensión de cizalla y las pruebas de centrifugación e influencia de la temperatura durante 60 días.Resultados: no existieron diferencias significativas entre el uso del propilenglicol o la glicerina, mientras que si fue notable la incidencia del alcohol cetílico en los valores de extensibilidad y pH. Se obtuvo como la mejor variante la I del diseño F2, en la que el alcohol cetílico se encontraba al 4 por ciento y el propilenglicol al 3 por ciento; el pH resultó 7,05 ± 0,00; la extensibilidad igual a 68,15 ± 1,51 y la tensión de cizalla de 1,93 ± 0,01; las propiedades psicofisiológicas resultaron satisfactorias y no hubo cremado ni coalescencia.Conclusiones: se puede considerar, atendiendo a las mediciones realizadas en el tiempo evaluado, características satisfactorias para las cremas elaboradas siendo la de menor costo, la variante I del diseño F2. La estabilidad física de las formulaciones, sometidas incluso las bases a pruebas de centrifugación e influencia de la temperatura, es indicativo de una buena compatibilidad entre el biopolímero estudiado y los excipientes de la formulación(AU)

Introduction: after taking the sun, it is indispensable to repair the skin affected by harmful rays. The cosmeceuticals for use after sunbath have antinflammatory, relaxing, hydrating, soothing and regenerative elements of the epithelium, which prevent or mitigate the feeling of pain, tautness, burning and rash. Objective: to develop a regenerative chitin cream to be used after sun tanning, with due quality to repair and hydrate the skin. Methods: two experimental designs 2² (F1 and F2) were created in which glycerin and propilenglycol were used as humectants respectively. Ph and extensibility were measured as variables in addition to analyzing the psychophysiological properties, the shearing tension and the centrifugation tests as well as the temperature impact during 60 days. Results: there were no significant differences between propilenglycol and glycerin whereas the incidence of cetyl alcohol in extensibility and pH values was noticeable. The best variant was the no. 1 in the F2 design in which the cetyl alcohol was found at 4 percent and the propilenglycol at 3 percent. The pH value was 7.05 ± 0.00; the extensibility was 68.15 ± 1.51 and the shear tension was 1.93 ± 0.01. The psychophysiological properties were satisfactory and there was no creaming or coalescence. Conclusions: it may be considered that, according to the measurements made in the evaluated period of time, the characteristics are satisfactory for the prepared creams; being variant I of the F2 design the least expensive. The physical stability of formulations undergoing tests of centrifugation and temperature impact indicates good compatibility between the studied polymer and the excipients(AU)

Diseño de una crema regeneradora con quitina para después del bronceado / Design of a regenerative chitin cream for use after sun tanning

Introducción: después de tomar el sol resulta indispensable reparar la piel agredida por los rayos nocivos. Los cosmecéuticos para después del sol contienen elementos antinflamatorios, calmantes, hidratantes, suavizantes y regeneradores del epitelio, los cuales evitan o mitigan la sensación de dolor, tirantez, ardor y prurito.Objetivo: desarrollar una crema regeneradora con quitina para después del bronceado con la calidad requerida para reparar e hidratar la piel. Métodos: se realizaron dos diseños experimentales 22 (F1 y F2), en los que se utilizaron humectantes diferentes, glicerina y propilenglicol respectivamente. Se midieron como variables respuestas: el pH y la extensibilidad; además se analizaron las propiedades psicofisiológicas, la tensión de cizalla y las pruebas de centrifugación e influencia de la temperatura durante 60 días.Resultados: no existieron diferencias significativas entre el uso del propilenglicol o la glicerina, mientras que si fue notable la incidencia del alcohol cetílico en los valores de extensibilidad y pH. Se obtuvo como la mejor variante la I del diseño F2, en la que el alcohol cetílico se encontraba al 4 por ciento y el propilenglicol al 3 por ciento; el pH resultó 7,05 ± 0,00; la extensibilidad igual a 68,15 ± 1,51 y la tensión de cizalla de 1,93 ± 0,01; las propiedades psicofisiológicas resultaron satisfactorias y no hubo cremado ni coalescencia.Conclusiones: se puede considerar, atendiendo a las mediciones realizadas en el tiempo evaluado, características satisfactorias para las cremas elaboradas siendo la de menor costo, la variante I del diseño F2. La estabilidad física de las formulaciones, sometidas incluso las bases a pruebas de centrifugación e influencia de la temperatura, es indicativo de una buena compatibilidad entre el biopolímero estudiado y los excipientes de la formulación

Introduction: after taking the sun, it is indispensable to repair the skin affected by harmful rays. The cosmeceuticals for use after sunbath have antinflammatory, relaxing, hydrating, soothing and regenerative elements of the epithelium, which prevent or mitigate the feeling of pain, tautness, burning and rash. Objective: to develop a regenerative chitin cream to be used after sun tanning, with due quality to repair and hydrate the skin. Methods: two experimental designs 2² (F1 and F2) were created in which glycerin and propilenglycol were used as humectants respectively. Ph and extensibility were measured as variables in addition to analyzing the psychophysiological properties, the shearing tension and the centrifugation tests as well as the temperature impact during 60 days. Results: there were no significant differences between propilenglycol and glycerin whereas the incidence of cetyl alcohol in extensibility and pH values was noticeable. The best variant was the no. 1 in the F2 design in which the cetyl alcohol was found at 4 percent and the propilenglycol at 3 percent. The pH value was 7.05 ± 0.00; the extensibility was 68.15 ± 1.51 and the shear tension was 1.93 ± 0.01. The psychophysiological properties were satisfactory and there was no creaming or coalescence. Conclusions: it may be considered that, according to the measurements made in the evaluated period of time, the characteristics are satisfactory for the prepared creams; being variant I of the F2 design the least expensive. The physical stability of formulations undergoing tests of centrifugation and temperature impact indicates good compatibility between the studied polymer and the excipients

Evaluación clínica de crema facial a base de enjundia de gallina (Gallus gallus) para el tratamiento de las arrugas / Clinical evaluation of facial cream based in greased of hen (Gallus gallus) for the treatment of the wrinkles

Se evaluó el efecto antiarrugas de la enjundia de gallina doméstica roja (Gallus gallus), procedente de un criadero de aves de una chacra particular, ubicada en el distrito de Chaclacayo, departamento de Lima (Perú). La grasa administrada bajo la forma de crema facial demostró propiedades para el relleno de arrugas y atenuación de líneas de expresión en el rostro. El ensayo se llevó a cabo, previo consentimiento informado, en 237 voluntarios sanos de ambos sexos, con edades mayores de 50 años. Un análisis de composición de ácidos grasos realizado por cromatografía gas-líquida en columna mostró la presencia de los siguientes ácidos: mirístico (0,7 por ciento), palmítico (17,5 por ciento), palmitoleico (3,1 por ciento), hexadecatrienoico ω4 (0,1 por ciento), esteárico (4,5 por ciento), oleico ω7 (1,8 por ciento), oleico ω9 (35,5 por ciento), linoleico ω6 (31,0 por ciento), linolénico ω3 (1,5 por ciento) linolénico ω4 (0,2 por ciento), octadecatetraenoico ω3 (0,1 por ciento), araquídico (0,1 por ciento), eicosenoico ω9 (0,3 por ciento), eicosadienoico ω6 (0,1 por ciento), eicosatrienoico ω3 (0,1 por ciento), eicosatrienoico ω6 (0,1 por ciento), araquidónico ω6 (0,2 por ciento), eico sapentaenoico ω3 (0,3 por ciento), docosenoico ω11+9 (0,1 por ciento), docosatetraenoico ω3 (0,1 por ciento), docosapentaenoico ω3 (0,1 por ciento), docosahexaenoico ω3 (0,2 por ciento). El ensayo de DL 50 reportó gran inocuidad, y las pruebas de sensibilidad cutánea y reactividad aguda realizadas en conejos mostraron que no es irritante para la piel, por lo que la enjundia de gallina se presenta como una fuente de materia prima natural, de bajo costo, con un gran potencial para su empleo en cosmética.

It was evaluated the effects no wrinkles of the grease of domestic hen or red (Gallus gallus) hen, coming from a hatchery of birds of a particular vegetable garden, located in the district of Chaclacayo, department of Lima (Perú). The fat administered under the form of facial cream demonstrated properties for the filler of wrinkles and attenuation of expression en lines the face. The test was carried out, informed previous consent, in 237 healthy volunteers of both sexes, with ages bigger than 50 years. An analysis of composition of fatty acid carried out by gas-liquid cromatografía in column showed the presence of the following acids: mirístico (0,7 per cent), palmítico (17,5 per cent), palmitoleico (3,1 per cent), hexadecatrienoico ω4 (0,1 per cent), esteárico (4,5 per cent), oleico ω7 (1,8 per cent), oleico ω9 (35,5 per cent), linoleico ω6 (31,0 per cent), linolénico ω3 (1,5 per cent), linolénico ω4 (0,2 per cent), eicosatrienoico ω3 (0,1 per cent), eicosatrienoico ω6 (0,1 per cent), araquidónico ω6 (0,2 per cent), eicosapentaenoico ω3 (0,3 per cent), docosenoico ω11+9 (0,1 per cent), decosatetraenoico ω3 (0,1 per cent), docosapentaenoico ω3 (0,1 per cent), docosahexaenoico ω3 (0,2 per cent). The test of DL50 reported great harmlessness, and the test of cutaneous sensibility and sharp reactivity carried out in rabbits it showed that it is not irritating for the skin, for what the hen grease shows up like a matter source prevails natural, of low cost, with a great potential for its employment in cosmetic.

Propuesta para una formulación de crema y champú a base de aceite de zapuyul (aceite de Pouteria sapota) y el análisis sensorial de su capacidad humectante / Proposal for a shampoo cream formulation based on oil and analysis zapuyul

El objetivo de esta investigación consistió en determinar si el aceite de zapuyul es útil como principio cosmético en la humectación de la piel y cabello en seres humanos, por medio de la formulación de crema y champú y de un análisis sensorial. El proyecto se dividió en 3 fases, las cuales corresponden a la evaluacion de parámetros fisicoquímicos del aceite de sapuyul, la formulación y producción de crema y champú a base del aceite, con el respectivo control de calidad y el análisis sensorial en piel y cabello de seres humanos. Dicho análisis sensorial evaluó la humectación, brillantez y suavidad aportada por el aceite de zapuyul en las formulaciones. El análisis sensorial constó de 4 sesiones, en donde se les realizó una entrevista a las personas de los diferentes grupos, placebo y experimental, en un lapso de un mes para cada sesión. De las 80 personas que iniciaron el estudio, 26 personas se retiraron antes de concluir y 54 de ellas lo finalizaron. Se determinó que de los dos parámetros evaluados en cabello humectación y brillantez y los dos evaluados en piel (humectación y suavidad) únicamente el parámetro de suavidad es estadísticamente significativo entre la comparación de crema a base de aceite de sapuyul y la crema placebo, por lo que la crema a base de aceite de sapuyul puede ser utilizada en la industria cosmética como un producto que confiere suavidad a la piel.

Desenvolvimento e estudos de estabilidade de cremes e géis contendo sementes e extratos do bagaço da uva Isabel (Vitis labrusca L) / Development and testing of the stability of creams and gels containing extracts of the pomace and seeds of Isabel grapes (Vitis labrusca L)

No cenário mundial, inúmeras indústrias de cosméticos buscam a inovação, utilizando-se de matérias-primas de origens diversificadas, principalmente oriundas de vegetais, representando uma alternativa de substituição de materiais sintéticos por naturais. Com esse intuito, no presente estudo, realizou-se o desenvolvimento e a avaliação da estabilidade de emulsões e géis contendo extratos e sementes do bagaço da uva Isabel (Vitis labrusca L.), uma espécie de uva rica em compostos fenólicos e flavonoides com grande atividade antioxidante. Com isso, buscou-se evidenciar o período em que os produtos mantiveram suas propriedades físico-químicas, frente a variações climáticas forçadas em estudos acelerados, durante o período de armazenamento. Foram preparados cremes contendo 5 e 10% de extrato glicólico do bagaço da uva e géis contendo 10% de sementes trituradas, sendo acondicionados em condições ambientais distintas e avaliados, através de testes físico-químicos, no período de 60 dias. Durante esse período, não foram evidenciados sinais de instabilidade físico-química nos cremes analisados frente às condições testadas. No entanto, o gel apresentou leve alteração da cor e do odor, sugerindo a necessidade de estabilização físico-química de seus constituintes naturais com a adição de antioxidantes.

Numerous cosmetic companies around the world seek innovation, using raw materials of various origins, mainly derived from plants, as natural alternatives to synthetic materials. With this in mind, this study was carried out to develop and test the stability of emulsions and gels, respectively containing extracts of pomace and seeds of Isabel grape (Vitis labrusca L.), a fruit rich in phenolics and flavonoids, with great antioxidant activity. Thus, we sought to highlight the length of time for which the products maintained their physical and chemical properties, when subjected to forced climate variations in accelerated stability tests, during storage. Creams containing 5 and 10% glycolic extract of grape pomace and gels containing 10% powdered seeds were prepared, accommodated in various environmental conditions and assessed by physicochemical tests over 60 days. During this period, there were no signs of physicochemical instability in the creams, under the conditions tested. However, the gel was slightly altered in color and smell, suggesting a need to stabilize its natural constituents by adding antioxidants.

Evaluation of the anti-wrinkle efficacy of cosmetic formulations with an anti-aging peptide (Argireline®)

The purpose of this research was to evaluate, by means of in vivo studies, the efficacy of new cosmetic active ingredients which effect of botox, called Argireline®), so that width and depth of wrinkles could be established. For this, it is prepared two formulations: an emulsion with an external aqueous phase for normal to dry skin, and a gel for oily skin. We likewise study the water content of the skin after the application of both formulas, as this must be one of the priority functions of facial treatments in general, as well as the level of satisfaction from the subjective point of view, fundamental for patients and their continuation of the treatment.After the designed tests, it is possible to verify that there is a remarkable diminution of the wrinkles size tested in each patient during the month of treatment. Besides, it is possible to review how the moisturizing capacity has been increased in all cases.At the end of the visual test, all the volunteers experienced a reduction in the depth of wrinkles, and from the subjective point of view, the appearance and elasticity of the skin were improved. Finally it is possible to conclude that Argireline® (acetyl hexapeptide-8 ) shows a great antiaging capacity in all the cases that have been studied and the tried compounds have increased moisturizing power(AU)

Desenvolvimento e avaliação da estabilidade física de loções O/A contendo filtros solares / Development and evaluation of physical stability from O/ W lotions containing sunscreens

Os objetivos deste estudo foram desenvolver e avaliar a estabilidade física de loções do tipo O/A contendo 6 por cento (p/p) do filtro solar octilmetoxicinamato (OMC) ou metilbenzilidenocânfora (MBC). As formulações foram armazenadas em temperatura ambiente durante seis meses e durante este período foram avaliadas com relação às suas características macroscópicas, viscosidade, comportamento reológico, índice de óleo, espalhabilidade e Fator de Proteção Solar (FPS). Os resultados demonstram que as formulações foram estáveis por seis meses. Os valores de FPS foram significativamente (P < 0,05) maiores para a formulação MBC. Em contrapartida, a formulação OMC apresentou valores de espalhabilidade significativamente (P < 0,05) superiores e valores de viscosidade significativamente (P < 0,05) inferiores durante todo o período de armazenamento.

The objectives of this study were to develop and to evaluate the physical stability of O/W lotions containing 6 percent (w/w) of the sunscreen octylmethoxycinnamate (OMC) or methyl benzylidene camphor (MBC). The formulations were stored at room temperature, for six months and during this period its macroscopic characteristics, viscosity and rheological behavior, oil indexes, spreading properties and Sun Protection Factor (SPF) were evaluated. The results demonstrate that both formulations were stable for six months. The SPF values were significantly (P < 0.05) higher for MBC formulation. On the other hand, the OMC formulation presented significantly (P < 0.05) higher spreading and lower viscosity values during the storage period.